6. Eye Makeup using Photoshop for crossdressers

6. Increase definition of the eyes

We have learned in our previous steps that it's important to have the focus on the eyes and how Photoshop can help us with that. In this step we're going to increase that focus by increasing the contrast in the eyes by brightening the whites and making the eyelashes darker.

Add a new layer by clicking on the Create a new Layer icon  in the layers palette.

Rename this layer to  Eyes .

Go to the menu and select Edit / Fill...

Select 50% Gray and click OK.

Set the blending mode of this layer to Soft Light: 

What we've done is creating a 50% Gray layer with a blending mode of Soft Light. This will have no effect on our image as you might have discovered. However... when we make parts of this gray layer darker or lighter it will actually effect the brightness values of the image underneath. More about this Photoshop technique can be found in my Non-Destructive Editing Photoshop tutorial.

Select the Dodge Tool in the tool bar. With the Dodge Tool selected make sure that in the options bar the option Exposure is set to 100%:

Note: normally this value would be much lower (quite often below 10%) if we were to use this tool directly on an image (without using a 50% Gray layer), but this is not the case right now. The option Range doesn't matter; you can set it to any value because it doesn't have any effect on our results.

Continue by changing the brush options of the Dodge Tool by clicking on the button marked with A.

Set Master Diameter to 2 and Hardness to 0%:

Zoom in on the left eye with 500%. Start by moving over the largest white areas while holding down the left mouse button (avoid touching the iris, eyelashes or skin). Only release the mouse button when you're done. Don't go over the same area a second time after releasing the mouse button.

Use the same approach for the right eye.

The difference will be hardly noticeable at first, but by turning on/off this layer in your layers palette you'll notice that it's quite an improvement. Again, switching layers is the best way to figure out whether you made the correct adjustments.

If you prefer a stronger effect, then can drag and drop this layer with the mouse on the Create a New Layericon  in the layers palette...

...and lowering its opacity until you like what you see.

Continue by Locking the Eyes layer (and the duplicate of this layer if you have one).

Time to work on the eyelashes. Add a new layer by clicking on the Create a new Layer icon  in the layers palette.

Rename this layer to Eyelashes . Fill this layer with 50% Gray like we did with the eyes, but this time set theblending mode of this layer in the layers palette to Overlay. I've chosen overlay, because it gives me more contrast than the Soft Light blending mode would have given me.

Select the Burn Toolin the tool bar. The brush size we're going to use is 3, the hardness is 0% andExposure is set to 100%. Again, the range option doesn't matter.

Zoom in on the left eye with 500%. Move your mouse cursor over the upper eyelashes while holding down the left mouse button. Only release the mouse button when you're done. It's the same story as with the eyes; don't go over the same area a second time after releasing the mouse button.

Use the same approach for the right eye.

If you prefer to do the lower eyelashes too (hardly visible, so I wouldn't advice it), then do this on a new layer, again filled with 50% Gray and a blending mode set to overlay and lower the opacity of this layer, because the effects are probably going to be too strong. Of course you can also consider to lower the opacity of the layer with the upper eyelashes.

Lock the Eyelashes layer.

Notice that the difference is minimal, but that's mainly caused by the low resolution and quality of the original image. You'll have better results with other images that you edit in Photoshop.

7. Fix Hair

We going to fix the hair to hide her right ear. First let's look at the following image:

The line A-B marks the length of the ear. With hair it's important to clone with large strokes, as if we're painting strains of hair, this to avoid patterns and in the end gives the "new" hair a more natural look. In order to be able to make full strokes between A and B (the full length of the ear), we need to set the source of the Clone Stamp Tool somewhere close to C. It is preferred that the distance between B and C is slightly larger than the distance between A and B so that we're able to cover the complete ear.

Add a new layer by clicking on the Create a new Layer icon  in the layers palette.

Rename this layer to  Hair .

Select the Clone Stamp Tool in the tool bar.

Now compare the settings in Photoshop's options bar with the ones I used:

Make sure that you have the same settings (the hardness of the brush is 0%).

Some might wonder; instead of using an opacity of 100% why not use something like 30% and cloning over the same area several times? The reason is that cloning over the same area with a 30% opacity tends to blur the fine strains of hair. A lower opacity however can be used at a later stage to fine tune the results after using the Clone Stamp Tool which was set to a 100% opacity.

With the Clone Stamp Tool selected, hold down the Alt key (Option key on the Mac) and move the cursor to the area marked with C in the previous image of the hair. Press and release your left mouse button (which will mark the source area for the Clone Stamp Tool) and release the Alt key (option key on the Mac).

Zoom in on the ear with about 200% and start at the left, place the cursor on the lower part of the ear, press the left mouse button and move the cursor upwards under the same angle (parallel) as the other strains of hair and release the mouse button when you've covered the top of the ear and repeat this whole process again, but this time start slightly to the right:

It should be possible to cover the ear in 3 or 4 strokes. When you're done, look for patterns and fix them with the same Clone Stamp Tool and change its size (remember the [ and ] shortcuts) or source if you have to. Turn the layer off /on a few times to get a feeling how well you're doing. You might also need the Burn orDodge Tool to control the brightness levels in some areas, but make sure that you select a pretty large size and rather low exposure setting in the options bar like 10% or lower if you do so.

I can't show you a straightforward Photoshop technique to clone hair, because quite often there are many steps involved. All I can advice is to experiment and to be patient. Also remember that to combination of the Clone Stamp Tool with other tools is highly recommended (if necessary).

Lock the Hair layer.

Next: Sharpen Images using Photoshop for crossdressers

Innocent Eye Makeup for crossdressers

Here’s a great new eye makeup style that I learned about which creates a very subtle and innocent look. I tried it out for the first time today, and I’m pretty happy with the results  There are two major lessons here that I will probably apply to other styles as well. First is applying a horizontal gradient across the eyelid . . . previously I had always used a vertical gradient (ie from lashes up to eyebrow) because it seems “natural”, but it turns out that a horizontal gradient (ie from nose outwards) does a great job of softening shadows that fall on your face – perfect for that “innocent” look, and also great for generally making you look younger. Second is using a similar technique for eyeliner on the bottom lid. I’d always had a hard time with eyeliner looking too dark on my lower lid, but if I didn’t add any at all then my eye lacked definition. Believe it or not, creating a horizontal gradient with your eyeliner is also a great makeup trick!
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Step 1:
Ok, first step is to apply a base layer of the lightest color you will be using. Always start light and layer on darker colors, regardless of which direction your gradient goes. If you do it the other way around, you will have a hard time with smudges and streaks. To get a nice innocent look, I started with a base layer of white eyeshadow and filled my entire upper lid from lash to brow. I also added a streak of white on my lower lid. Be careful adding light colors on your lower lid though, because whites and silvers have a tendency to accentuate wrinkles (and most people have some wrinkles under their eyes even when they are relatively young). If you can’t pull off white or silver, try a brown that’s lighter than your skin tone.
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Step 2:
Next step is to add the gradient. Select a darker color (purples or blues work great for this) and “dab” it into your eyelid on the outer edge. This keeps the lighter color towards your nose where shadows tend to form, thus counteracting the shadows and softening your face. Anyway, dab away, but don’t blend or smudge – you’ll end up with way too much color and the darker shade will just go everywhere. Dab dab dab. You don’t need much eyeshadow for this. Also follow the line of your eye *up* your cheek a bit – this will elongate your eye a bit, but make sure you go up your face so you don’t make your eyes look droopy!
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Step 3:
I’m going to break my own advice here on step 3, and I don’t have a good justification for it. Just trust me :p Ok, grab your black eyeliner (or black eyeshadow with a thin tight brush) and trace your upper lash line like you normally would. You want a nice thin line because most of your eyelid is a very light color that you don’t want to overwhelm. Work from the inside edge outwards, and be sure to pull your skin taught. to keep the line crisp. Now on to your bottom lid, start from the *outside* edge and work your way about 3/4 the way across your eye. No further, just 3/4 the way across!
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Step 4:
Ok, now grab a bright white eyeshadow, preferably brighter than what you coated your eye with. Using a small tight brush, start from the inside edge of your lower eyelid and pull a single thin line of white out towards where you stopped with the black eyeliner. You’ll want to go about halfway across your eye (overlapping the black), but allow the white to fade out into the black eyeliner where they overlap. This should create a nice gradient that brightens up the lower inside corner of your eye. It will make you look more awake and perky 
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That’s all there is to it! Now you have perfect eyes for a schoolgirl outfit, wedding, or any other innocent look.


Courtesy: http://thecrossdresser.org/2009/05/innocent-eye-makeup/